'Nother New York Fashion Week

Hood by Air

Even though overtaking Paris as the most fashionable city in the world, according to Global Language Monitor, it seems as though New York's designers are staying true to the relaxed chic the city provides for the coming Fall/Winter season. The uniformity of New York style may be what is dominating in the minds of the designers, or it may even be a backlash against the loss of democracy in fashion media, with designers choosing to hold back on the spectacle as a rebuttal to the absence of questionably valuable bloggers and freelance fashion enthusiasts. Besides the changes in fashion media acceptance, Marc Jacobs' first collection since his departure from Louis Vuitton was highly anticipated. As per usual, some designers stood out amongst the crowd, and the few who did did so daringly.

Dion Lee

Dion Lee

Dion Lee

Jason Wu 

Narciso Rodriguez

Minimalism is a trend that has endured the rapidity of fashion, and Dion Lee, Jason Wu and Narciso Rodriguez have displayed updated approaches to the trend. Jason Wu and Narciso Rodriguez brought sophistication back to minimalism by focusing on the look of the materials and barely distorting the silhouette, which has been overdone by the myriad of designers who have preyed on the trend to survive. Aussie designer Dion Lee once again impressed New York fashion elite with gladiatorial gold strapping which was juxtaposed against the more feminine and flowing materials consistent throughout.

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung

Suno

Suno

Suno and Prabal Gurung have drawn inspiration from traditional patterns and materials to allow the modern woman to show off her heritage with pride. Suno showed ribbed gold dresses in a pattern reminiscent of a Japanese Zen Garden and panelled two-piece sets derivative of Asiatic cultural garments. Notable designer Prabal Gurung went back to his Nepalese roots for his latest collection, presenting shearling coats, a gradient of red and orange draping and symbolic anklets as homage to the religious folk in the Himalayas. Prabal has paired these pieces with working garments such as blazers, trousers and blouses, further allowing city women to don his pieces.

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera 

Diane von Furstenberg

Diane von Furstenberg

Yigal Azrouel

Fashion isn't fashion without patterns thrown into the mix. Yigal Azrouel, Diane Von Furstenberg and Carolina Herrera have dictated what patterns they want women to wear in the coming season - with Yigal proposing discreet geometrics, Diane combining mod and psychedelia in a palette of white, gold, black, blue and red, and Ms. Herrera taking geometrics another step further by adding triangular embellishments in the neckline and waistline of various dresses.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Jeremy Scott

Rodarte

Rodarte

Rodarte

Boldness is characteristic of designers such as Hood by Air, Thom Browne, Duckie Brown, Jeremy Scott and Rodarte, but it seems as though Luella and Kate from Marc by Marc Jacobs has broken its strict rule of youthful minimalism to bring a complete overhaul on the diffusion line's aesthetic. Whilst Hood by Air and Duckie Brown bent gender stereotypes and Jeremy Scott and Marc by Marc Jacobs bore vibrant motifs scattered throughout their clothing in eye-blinding colours, Rodarte brought fashion from a galaxy far, far away. The Star Wars themed evening dresses, featuring famous characters such as Luke Skywalker and Yoda on the skirts, took the cake. And seeing as I myself am a sci-fi nerd, it's obvious that Rodarte Fall/Winter 2014 was my favourite collection from New York.

Images courtesy of Fashionising and Lea Colombo for Dazed and Confused

Best of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 Pt. 2

The second half of the week boasted some big names, including Victoria Beckham, Thakoon, Y-3, Edun, Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan and Thom Browne. Amongst these highly regarded designers, a few stood out for me:

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera is one of those designers who herself is a fashion icon, and she has directly translated her undeniably modern and chic style into her upcoming collection. The collection features a discreet selection of colours, which almost conceal the finer details of the pieces, such as sheer panels, multi-layering and use of delicate yet sturdy fabrics. People who know Carolina know that she is not opulent nor ornate, but rather the embodiment of true minimal style, and now she has offered that to women in the coming Spring/Summer season.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Phillip Lim - a powerhouse in the New York fashion scene, has unveiled an interestingly composed collection. A number of details stand out - hidden sheer panels amongst rivers of colour, moody iridescence and the risky tie-dye. Despite these understated details, the effortlessness of these looks is apparent. Phillip may have also started another trend - the uneven decollatage. 

Vera Wang

A master of dresses, Vera Wang has once again delivered an outstanding collection. She has deliberately overused flowing sheers, often seen in bridal dresses, in a variety of colours to create a series of nonchalant dresses perfect for the warmer months. Layering and overlapping different colours equate to a collection conveying modern etherealness.

Proenza Schouler

There's a wonderful earthiness that exudes from Proenza Schouler's Spring/Summer 2014 collection, which is more grounded than what most designers' are showing nowadays. Despite this atmosphere, the urban influences of New York show on some of the pieces - the artificiality of botanical prints, paint-covered seams and the odd metallic. The origami-style construction of some of the dresses are juxtaposed the somewhat Greco-Roman inspired silhouettes, whilst the colour palette keeps the collection low-key yet highly striking.

Dion Lee

Dion Lee - Australia's most prized designer in this day and age, has finally shown the fashion elite of the Big Apple what he is capable of achieving. Seeing this designer grow, both in his market success and design aesthetic, has influenced my appreciation and love for his collections. His technological approach to historical design create garments that are absolutely perfect for the modern woman. His take on the dying trend of peplum is tied in with his ability to weave fabric into beautiful contorted pieces, and paired with skirt-pant hybrids and layered skirts, this collection has emerged as one of my favourites not only for the coming season, but from Mr. Lee.

Images courtesy of Fashionising