2.15.2014

'Nother New York Fashion Week

Hood by Air

Even though overtaking Paris as the most fashionable city in the world, according to Global Language Monitor, it seems as though New York's designers are staying true to the relaxed chic the city provides for the coming Fall/Winter season. The uniformity of New York style may be what is dominating in the minds of the designers, or it may even be a backlash against the loss of democracy in fashion media, with designers choosing to hold back on the spectacle as a rebuttal to the absence of questionably valuable bloggers and freelance fashion enthusiasts. Besides the changes in fashion media acceptance, Marc Jacobs' first collection since his departure from Louis Vuitton was highly anticipated. As per usual, some designers stood out amongst the crowd, and the few who did did so daringly.

Dion Lee
Dion Lee
Dion Lee
Jason Wu 
Narciso Rodriguez

Minimalism is a trend that has endured the rapidity of fashion, and Dion Lee, Jason Wu and Narciso Rodriguez have displayed updated approaches to the trend. Jason Wu and Narciso Rodriguez brought sophistication back to minimalism by focusing on the look of the materials and barely distorting the silhouette, which has been overdone by the myriad of designers who have preyed on the trend to survive. Aussie designer Dion Lee once again impressed New York fashion elite with gladiatorial gold strapping which was juxtaposed against the more feminine and flowing materials consistent throughout.


Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung
Suno
Suno

Suno and Prabal Gurung have drawn inspiration from traditional patterns and materials to allow the modern woman to show off her heritage with pride. Suno showed ribbed gold dresses in a pattern reminiscent of a Japanese Zen Garden and panelled two-piece sets derivative of Asiatic cultural garments. Notable designer Prabal Gurung went back to his Nepalese roots for his latest collection, presenting shearling coats, a gradient of red and orange draping and symbolic anklets as homage to the religious folk in the Himalayas. Prabal has paired these pieces with working garments such as blazers, trousers and blouses, further allowing city women to don his pieces.


Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera 
Diane von Furstenberg
Diane von Furstenberg
Yigal Azrouel


Fashion isn't fashion without patterns thrown into the mix. Yigal Azrouel, Diane Von Furstenberg and Carolina Herrera have dictated what patterns they want women to wear in the coming season - with Yigal proposing discreet geometrics, Diane combining mod and psychedelia in a palette of white, gold, black, blue and red, and Ms. Herrera taking geometrics another step further by adding triangular embellishments in the neckline and waistline of various dresses.

Marc by Marc Jacobs
Jeremy Scott
Rodarte

Rodarte
Rodarte

Boldness is characteristic of designers such as Hood by Air, Thom Browne, Duckie BrownJeremy Scott and Rodarte, but it seems as though Luella and Kate from Marc by Marc Jacobs has broken its strict rule of youthful minimalism to bring a complete overhaul on the diffusion line's aesthetic. Whilst Hood by Air and Duckie Brown bent gender stereotypes and Jeremy Scott and Marc by Marc Jacobs bore vibrant motifs scattered throughout their clothing in eye-blinding colours, Rodarte brought fashion from a galaxy far, far away. The Star Wars themed evening dresses, featuring famous characters such as Luke Skywalker and Yoda on the skirts, took the cake. And seeing as I myself am a sci-fi nerd, it's obvious that Rodarte Fall/Winter 2014 was my favourite collection from New York.



Images courtesy of Fashionising and Lea Colombo for Dazed and Confused

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