OUTRAGE | Male Body Image: Thom Browne and Hedi Slimane

A male model at Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2015 feeling the pump

The Spring/Summer 2015 menswear season has just ended, and may be one of the most radical - unusual yet intriguing styling, unorthodox headwear and a general flurry of graphically blinding prints filled the collections of London, Milan and Paris designer labels. But, it seems as though two designers, who are vastly different from each other, has tackled two sides of male body image and confidence head on.

There is no denying that a health and fitness revolution has struck the general population, and this has certainly been targeted by the blatantly obvious bodybuilding parodical designs of Thom Browne (as above). The Spring/Summer 2015 collection featured a myriad of padded blazers, jackets and pants exaggerating the muscle groups bodybuilders aim to pump up. It's plain and simple: Thom strikes at the heart of the resurgence of bodybuilding by conveying this physique as nothing but a fleeting trend, and how it correlates with the coming and going of trends in fashion. It's ridiculous to see clothing that reflects the body image, but that's how Thom is - he always strives to shove it in your face. Always an advocate for the avant-garde and risky, Thom has definitely challenged the realness of what dedicated muscle men are really striving for.

On the other hand, the comparatively small frames of the male models within Hedi Slimane's Spring/Summer 2015 collection for Saint Laurent Paris created a stir. An ode to a time when a man's natural physique was glorified, Hedi has also challenged the ideal male body image today. But, seeing these delicate men walk down the runway forces us to question whether the strive for thinness that is rampant amongst female models is being placed upon male models too. Whether or not these men are naturally or forcibly thin, I don't know, but at least there was a modern-day Jimi Hendrix to clear the air of shock (below).

Jimi Hendrix, is that you?

As a man, the pressure to become your best physical self is popping up everywhere. No doubt, these two designers have given us something to think about - male body image. Speaking as a young men adept to the rapidity of marketing, I believe men should be proud of their body no matter if they are striving for a better physique and health status or comfortable where they are. C'mon guys, stand with pride!

Images courtesy of Style.com

The Fun of Fashion

Through the chaotic atmosphere of the multitude of things that are occurring within the fashion industry, it is unfortunate that the seriousness of it all overshadows the fun that is fashion. Now, there is no doubt that there is always one collection that stands out amongst the rest, and Prada proved to be the one that will lead the way in the Spring/Summer 2014 season. The fashion house's latest womenswear collection is a colourful expression of the gaiety that is often missed within the more playful streams of fashion, featuring portraits of cartoon women, vivid bedazzled dresses and outerwear, elements of the now strung out Hawaiian trend and the risqué leg warmer. Although the campaign features the models donning mundane expressions and conservative poses, the film (watch below) is nothing but an extension of this season's ideology, with all the models emphasising the visually entertaining clothing by being entertained themselves. The house has hit the spot by not relying on exotic locations, unnecessary poses and photographic enhancements, to an extent, to present their collection to the fashion-conscious mass.

Image courtesy of We Are So Droee

Video courtesy of the official Prada Youtube channel

Best of London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014

I was surprised at the fact that not many designers succeeded to impress me at London Fashion Week, especially since I am an avid fan of British style. Amongst the names that showed this year, including Christopher Raeburn, Daks, House of Holland, Richard Nicoll, Mary Katrantzou and Vivienne Westwood and many more, a trifecta emerged as my favourites.

David Koma

David Koma has produced a collection that fuses contemporary architectural silhouettes and the softness of femininity. Cut-outs, asymmetrical geometry and almost-invisible sheer are details that create the collection, daringly similar to Alexander Wang, but different in the fact that the hard-edged feel is substituted for with a more approachable aesthetic and colour palette that stretches beyond monochromatic.

J.W. Anderson

J.W. Anderson has emerged as a designer who loves to play on the boundaries of wearability, often producing questionable yet loveable collections. Although this collection is quite relaxed, the artistry in most of the pieces bring a sense of tension in terms of its functionality, which is also one of its strengths. Risky organza tops, statement bow belts, origami inspired pieces and ensembles resembling the fluidity of jelly fish reflect exactly what J.W. Anderson stands for. 

Preen

Thomton Bergazzi for Preen has effectively continued the distinct modernity of the label, yet this collection is distinguishable by its lighter look. The structure and sturdiness of collections past resonate, including layered sheers and multi-faceted dresses, but the appearance of more simplistic pieces is applaudable. The colour palette is undeniably wearable, and does not overpower the minimal detailing.

Images courtesy of Fashionising

Best of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 Pt. 2

The second half of the week boasted some big names, including Victoria Beckham, Thakoon, Y-3, Edun, Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan and Thom Browne. Amongst these highly regarded designers, a few stood out for me:

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera is one of those designers who herself is a fashion icon, and she has directly translated her undeniably modern and chic style into her upcoming collection. The collection features a discreet selection of colours, which almost conceal the finer details of the pieces, such as sheer panels, multi-layering and use of delicate yet sturdy fabrics. People who know Carolina know that she is not opulent nor ornate, but rather the embodiment of true minimal style, and now she has offered that to women in the coming Spring/Summer season.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Phillip Lim - a powerhouse in the New York fashion scene, has unveiled an interestingly composed collection. A number of details stand out - hidden sheer panels amongst rivers of colour, moody iridescence and the risky tie-dye. Despite these understated details, the effortlessness of these looks is apparent. Phillip may have also started another trend - the uneven decollatage. 

Vera Wang

A master of dresses, Vera Wang has once again delivered an outstanding collection. She has deliberately overused flowing sheers, often seen in bridal dresses, in a variety of colours to create a series of nonchalant dresses perfect for the warmer months. Layering and overlapping different colours equate to a collection conveying modern etherealness.

Proenza Schouler

There's a wonderful earthiness that exudes from Proenza Schouler's Spring/Summer 2014 collection, which is more grounded than what most designers' are showing nowadays. Despite this atmosphere, the urban influences of New York show on some of the pieces - the artificiality of botanical prints, paint-covered seams and the odd metallic. The origami-style construction of some of the dresses are juxtaposed the somewhat Greco-Roman inspired silhouettes, whilst the colour palette keeps the collection low-key yet highly striking.

Dion Lee

Dion Lee - Australia's most prized designer in this day and age, has finally shown the fashion elite of the Big Apple what he is capable of achieving. Seeing this designer grow, both in his market success and design aesthetic, has influenced my appreciation and love for his collections. His technological approach to historical design create garments that are absolutely perfect for the modern woman. His take on the dying trend of peplum is tied in with his ability to weave fabric into beautiful contorted pieces, and paired with skirt-pant hybrids and layered skirts, this collection has emerged as one of my favourites not only for the coming season, but from Mr. Lee.

Images courtesy of Fashionising