Armani Privé's 10th Anniversary

Once in a while in fashion, a collection seems to turn the tide not in setting trends, but for reviving true appreciation for fashion without that superficial want to wear what is shown so you can be seen. Armani Privé's Spring 2015 Couture is one such collection.

Elevating its stellar beauty, this collection is the 10th from the Armani Privé house. And what a way to celebrate this milestone - look after look after look, there seemed to be no going wrong for Mr. Armani. The first looks were dazzling in champagne hues, in a myriad of both hard-edged and softly fabrics, rife with Oriental elements such as the bamboo print.

As the show went on, the collection transition into a more elemental theme - with the faint earthy browns and champagnes replaced by a smokey green. The greens fit perfectly with what seemed to be shoals resembling seaweed and layered skirts that emulate the flow of the flora in water. Despite this, the Oriental feel did not go away, with the pieces being an interpretation of Ancient Japanese clothing for the modern, sophisticated woman.

Finally, the collection ended with shining cobalt blues and stark blues in chiffon and silks. These were by far the most beautiful of the collection, the embellishments enhancing the exquisiteness of the evening gowns. Again, the juxtaposition of rigid and flowing fabrics along with luxe embellishments make for a Couture collection like no other this season. This collection showed how and why Mr. Armani is still one of the reigning fashion designers of our time.

Images courtesy of Style.com 

Raf Brings "The New Look " Back

Raf Simons has recovered from a dry spell of showing less than bewildering fashions lately for Christian Dior, and has done so by looking back at the heart of Dior's popularity. The New Look, a line of clothing that brought Dior greatness in 1947 and onwards, is credited as revolutionary in female fashion freedom.

 The skirt in particular, body hugging at the waist and fanning out to the bottom hem, was seen in a majority of the dresses in Raf's Couture collection for Dior this coming season. As fashion can be indicative of one's beliefs, if this style of skirt comes back, it will be a symbol of the freedoms women fought for back then and how that is relevant today in the continuing fight for equality.

Along with this, references to his reign at Jil Sander and also his personal taste for mixing old and new via inorganic materials and touches of masculinity. Of course, the 60s trend has impacted the line, with bright, vivid colours, shining sequins and semi-psychedelic patterns coming through. Props to Raf for showing that he is still worth of his top seat at Dior.

View the complete collection at www.style.com

Images courtesy of Style.com

Walter Van Beirendonck's Reformist Fashion

Anti-terrorism, homosexual pride, body confidence and gender-bending androgyny. Walter Van Beirendonck, the quirkiest of the original Antwerp Six, always strive to stray from the mainstream. With his Fall/Winter 2015 menswear collection, the lumberjack looking designer aims to punch current social issues in the face.

At first, the oddness of the collection is apparent, but details that run throughout the clothing and the makeup for the show, are references to issues that need to be resolved. The collection started with a cat-eye clad male model wearing a clear PVC singlet with the words "STOP TERRORISING OUR WORLD" emblazoned onto it - an obvious provoking shout at terrorist organisations that have felt the need to exercise their distaste for humanity. Already off on a roll, the next singlet with the words "WARNING: EXPLICIT BEAUTY" subverts one's perception of the ideal body image by emphasising that the way one looks is already beautiful.

As the show went on, necklaces and brooches containing discreet homosexual sexual toys were commonplace. Although not as loud as the anti-terrorism and body confidence messages relayed, an unnecessary hidden pride of one's sexuality can be interpreted. Not a collection to be trendy, but a collection to push social reform.

Images courtesy of Dazed Digital

Galliano's Menacing Return to Couture

An air of orchestrated tension filled the venue at John Galliano's debut show for Maison Martin Margiela. This atmosphere continued when the Couture looks came out, conveying a twisted take on the signature oddness which Margiela offers with their Haute Couture collections season after season. Dishevelled gowns, restricting dresses with tulle weakly hanging off, ruined sheers and bleeding red latex reiterates the grandness to which Galliano subscribes to and brings to the legendary label, topped off with seemingly innocent ballet platforms.

 The final look was a scarlet red gown, embellished with golden junk and finished off with a Margiela mask resembling a cross between apocalyptic and Medieval monarchial madness (think: Lady Gaga's Bad Romance music video). With this off-putting finale, Galliano came out for his applause in a chilling white coat, symbolising his return to Haute Couture with menace.

Images courtesy of Style.com

Bailey's Bedazzled for Burberry

Burberry Prorsum is the show to watch whenever London Collections: Men is in full swing, and Christopher Bailey's effectual changes to the clothing each season is welcomed as he manages to create a flow between the two. For Fall/Winter 2015, Mr. Bailey seemed abashed and withheld in this approach, with the collection similar to his preceding one in more ways than expected.

Spring/Summer 2015 for Burberry is bright and vivid yet sophisticated, so expectations for his latest collection would be a more muted interpretation of the previous, but Bailey completely threw us off with what he has conjured. Too many ideas appeared - shearling, suiting, embellished scarves and bags, velour, cheetah, organic florals, spectacles and that '70s trend popping up everywhere, fringing.

All of these led up to the plethora of bedazzlement in the jackets and coats at the end of the show, leaving me confused as to what he wants to convey. Maybe it's a stab at the eradication of "fashion trends", showing what an overload of styles we can choose from in this internet fuelled and globalised world. Nonetheless, this shaman-boho-bloomsbury hybrid is certainly stylish, but I'm not sure consumers and fans of the brand can fully embrace what was presented.

View the complete collection at www.style.com

Images courtesy of Burberry

Tiffany & Co. for Marriage Equality

It is a time when marriage equality is a hot topic amongst anyone who knows someone who is, are or are offended by the prospect. Amongst a myriad of fashion labels that have showed their support for marriage equality, Tiffany & Co.'s declaration of their backing of same sex couples and their marriage rights have been made audible in their latest campaign. A fine jewellery brand known for its engagement rings, and of course THAT movie, it is ever more meaningful that a brand that draws on the beauty of love has shown that same sex couples should be respected and embraced. Hopefully this will spark a trend amongst other jewellery labels to take a stance on the issue of marriage equality.

Image courtesy of OUT Magazine

Back to Business

James Long Fall/Winter 2015

I've been away for a while, lost in a tide of busyness and I confess, somewhat, stuck in a writer's block. It's not that my passion for writing about fashion and culture has left me run dry, but I just needed a sabbatical to refresh my mind for the new year! I'm looking forward to typing away my thoughts on the happenings within the fashion industry once again...

Cacolyte

Image courtesy of Dazed Digital

OUTRAGE | Cultural Offence on The Catwalk

Trelise Cooper has been the subject of unwanted negative attention when she released models on the catwalk wearing Native American Head Dresses at her New Zealand Fashion Week show. Her intention was to reflect the beauty of the headwear, but ignorantly missed the fact that debasing deeply spiritual and sacred items for the sake of fashion goes over the line of risqué.

An overwhelming backlash against the designer's poor choice was seen throughout various social media networks. Most were an attack on how she labelled the look as "'70s bohemian vibes" on Instagram, satirising her blindness to the racist overtones, despite her later apology upon realising the offence she has caused

But, as someone who produces and distributes products that are supposed to be a reflection of society and culture, she has not done such a thing. As avant-garde and daring as some designers are, you still have a responsibility of being aware of the good and bad implications of your work, and hopefully Dame Trelise will completely avoid Racist Road again.

Images: Buzzfeed, Steph Adams and TVNZ

Shoes For A Better Future

A relatively young shoe label is fast becoming a sought after essential for fashion enthusiasts, and not in a place you'd necessarily think fashion is one. Aurora James, the Creative Director of Brother Vellies, is on a mission to preserve the ancient methods of shoemaking in Africa, and also bringing the African population to appreciate what has been lost in the ages and nurture their sense of style.

Inspired by her vacations in Africa and conversations about fashion with locals she met along the way, Aurora set out on a mission to fuse the old and new for African locals who wanted fashionable footwear. Producing shoes that skew the functionality and look of the modern day and trendy Desert Boot and Sandal, the materials used to create the shoe are a stand out compared to other fashion labels. Patent cork, recycled tyres, denim off-cuts and holographic leather are what comprise the set of unique footwear. 

Dedicated to providing functional yet individually stylish footwear and job opportunities for local populations, Aurora regularly flies between the workshops set up in Kenya, Namibia and South Africa, working with the artisans themselves. Her work has not gone unnoticed, with a previous collaboration with New York designer William Okpo, selling in Moda Operandi and an upcoming pop-up at Nordstrom.

In a multitude of ways, Aurora has silently blown many fashion labels out of the water, and I hope her work will be known and supported by the population at large. I mean, how can you not when her shoes are giving the locals more so than she intended to give? 

To check out and support the charitable label, head to www.brothervellies.com

Images: Opening Ceremony, Brother Vellies, Large Up, MoCADA and Revolusoul

The Masters of Fashion

Oscar de la Renta

The hub of fashion film, ShowStudio, and the luxury London department store of Selfridge & Co. has unveiled a collaborative campaign which pays homage to the 12 most accomplished fashion designers of our time. The video campaign features pieces from all of the designers and labels from The Masters project - a six month creative exploration of these dictatorial designers and the timelessness of their work.

Paul Smith 

Set in a plethora of different environments that symbolise a different fashion master, each scene centres on the specially designed garments for the project. Although illusive as to which scene represents which designer, a keen fashion enthusiast would definitely seek out whose is whose. I admit, I jumped with glee when the Dries Van Noten, Paul Smith, Rick Owens, Stella McCartney and Yohji Yamamoto caught my eagle eye.

Marc Jacobs 

These designers are the dictators of what is worn, the trendsetters of what is liked and loved in the moment, the most revered fashion forces in the world. Ok I'll stop with the over-admiration. But, it can't be helped when the campaign is this visually pleasing and targeted right at those who appreciate the work of these designers.

 Azzedine Alaia

All outfits and pieces featured in the film are available on www.selfridges.com

WATCH "THE MASTERS" HERE

Images: ShowStudio

Source: ShowStudio