Fashion month brings about many changes within the fashion industry, and most of the time, collections that reflect the ever-changing and evolving design aesthetic of designers and labels. Whatever the month of September brings, the heart of it all is fashion. The non-conventional UK magazine, Dazed & Confused, have uploaded a series of GIFs on their website appropriating a few of the best looks throughout the collections presented throughout the month...
The Dior Greenhouse, the set of the label's Spring/Summer 2014 show
It's time to say goodbye to another busy fashion month, and what a way to do so, with the shocking news that Marc Jacobs will be leaving his position as Creative Director for Louis Vuitton after a 16 year reign of the historical label. Of course, the discreetly artistic show by Chanel, the plastic hat parasols of Chalayan, the surprising turn of aesthetic for Gareth Pugh and Givenchy and the revolutionary, non-conformist sorority style show of Rick Owens topped it off.
The "runway warriors" at the Rick Owens show
Marc Jacobs at the finale of his last show for Louis Vuitton
Despite the abundance of well-known names and labels showing, there seemed to be an unwelcome bleak streak, which may have been cancelled out by the sudden changes within the fashion industry. Three designers stood out to me, simply because of their abilities to show diversity and renewed skills in design...
I still believe Gareth Pugh's Spring/Summer 2013 collection and show is one of the best I have ever seen produced by a designer - it was a collection born from the scorn and ravages one can experience in life... but this time around it seems the darkness has been averted to a welcome change in aesthetic. A softer silhouette is seen throughout the collection, drawing inspiration from both traditional Asian and Mediterranean attire. The usual harsh colour palette of black, grey and red has now been replaced by one with metallic shades of blue, bright hues of green and even luminous gold. Will Mr. Pugh keep with this new found change in his coming collections? I certainly hope so.
Raf SImons has well and truly earned his place as the Creative Director of Dior, and there was a feeling that he has decided to show a darker side to the Dior woman. Raf has managed to keep the undoubtedly sophisticated look of Dior, but has tweaked elements to represent his struggle to enmesh into the label - especially the deceivingly friendly florals. The reflective detail is present in every necklace, bangle, pattern or appliqué, being and/or featuring poisonous flora - poison ivy, wisteria or the romantically dangerous rose. The vividness of the collection is undoubtable, but this discreetly dark addition to the garments is what stands out beyond the silhouette, colours and flawless styling.
The ever-rebellious Riccardo Tisci has decided to take a turn of aesthetic for Givenchy. Riccardo Tisci has made himself known via his outlandish injection of youth culture into the historical label, his selection of prints including rottweilers, dobermans, birds of paradise and the cartoon character Bambi, just to name a few, being his signature. But now, he has gone back to the roots of the label and shown his ability to embody and appropriate the distinct aesthetic that gave Givenchy its fame. Of course, he has not done this without twisting the feminine silhouettes with worldly approaches to draping and overlaying in the dresses, a visual story continued from his menswear collection.
Karl Lagerfeld at the finale of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2014 show
The bitter cold may be a thing of the past here down under, but as the Spring/Summer 2014 collections are being showcased, simultaneously, gear for the long Winter is filling the shelves of stores in the Northern hemisphere. Fendi's new fashion film, named "Neverwinter Tale", is an injection of calm before the cold hits. The slow-motion cinematography of the film manages to emphasize the cuts, details and materials of the individual pieces of the illustrious label's Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection. The colour palette of the collection go hand in hand with the visuals of the film, perfectly reflecting the sallow blues of the colder months. Allow the soothing film fill your mind below...
All thanks to Humberto Leon and Carol Lim from Opening Ceremony, Kenzo has taken over the fashion scene once again in recent years, particularly with their vibrant retake on the original designer's worldly prints (note: the Kenzo tiger). The revamped Kenzo label has now been dubbed a major rival of Givenchy and Balenciaga, and the Opening Ceremony duo have proved their ability to bring attention to the wondrous history of the Kenzo label with another motif - The Eye.
The label's Fall/Winter 2013 collection features the eye - a symbol of protection, good luck, optimism and the surreal in many Asian cultures, an ode to the Japanese origin on the Paris-based fashion house. Drawing from this, a Bollywood-inspired campaign has been released, featuring 3 models of different nationalities all dressed in Kenzo, set in an urban playground. The quick-paced video campaign truly reflects the vision of the original designer, Kenzo Takada - a world unified by the similarities and differences in world cultures, particularly fashion. Check out the video below...
The world-renowned fashion museum, The Palais Galliera, is set to open its doors to the public once again after many years of renovation, on the 28th of September. In celebration of its re-opening, the unfortunately underestimated fashion designer and living legend, Azzedine Alaia, is presenting a retrospective of his life work.
It's no surprise if you're unaware of this designer, but there's no doubt that his influence has hit the woman's wardrobe to some degree. The designer brought body-hugging silhouettes and a new level of sultry to women's fashion, heavily influencing the popularity of spandex and off-shoulder dresses in the 1980's. It's a shame to know his work often goes unacknowledged amongst the greater fashion-conscious crowd, but hopefully this exhibition will bring back the mass appreciation he deserves.
For more details on the reopening of The Palais Galliera, CLICK HERE
The beautiful city of Milan plays host to the second last fashion week of September, with famous designers and labels such as Moschino, MSGM, Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni, Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli and Giorgio Armani showcasing their upcoming collections for the Spring/Summer season. My favourites from this season include:
Fendi
It's wonder to see how Karl Lagerfeld, being the Creative Director of both Chanel and Fendi, can diversify and adapt to the different design aesthetics of these two illustrious fashion houses. Karl's collection for Fendi is abundant in space-aged sheer layering, creating a juxtaposition of femininity against the hardness of the technological. To further enhance this, coats and jackets feature patterns reminiscent of conduit boards and displaced triangular tessellations are present in the latter half of the collection.
Costume National
Costume National is one of those fashion houses whose intermittent repertoire is a rarity, and whose influence on fashion is apparent but unknown to many. The Italian fashion house has shown a very grounded and effortlessly stylish collection, focusing on warping essential womenswear staples such as white waistcoats, tea and cocktail dresses via the cut outs along the decolletages and hems and placement of sheers. The perfect collection for a woman whose style embodies the climax of minimalist and cubist details.
Prada
Prada never ceases to amaze the fashion industry with its consistently eccentric aesthetic, which so often changes, but has managed to set the benchmark for other underdog fashion designers and labels with its distinguishable look and feel. Amongst the street art and graffiti filled venue, models donning garments featuring eloquent encrusted jewels, vibrant colours and the odd artistic portraits of women walked the stage. A closer look at the collection forces one to question whether the leg-warmers are a hit or a miss, but there's no doubt that the footwear and handbags are going to be a hit amongst the mass.
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta's earthy and grounded aesthetic is the label's signature, and has been translated so once again in their Spring/Summer 2014 collection. What stands out in this collection is the layering, draping and fabric creases within the dresses, which, rather than adding weight and heaviness, bring a sense of lightness - a hard feat to achieve especially in these techniques. Undeniably sophisticated, the collection has been designed for the understated woman who loves the weight and feel of textured fabrics combined with expert craftsmanship.
Gianfranco Ferre
The architect of fashion, aka Gianfranco Ferre, and his geometric and cubist approach to fashion has been carried on by the Creative Directors of his label, with the Spring/Summer 2014 collection making that evident. With the architectural construction of these garments, you'd assume more a harsh and non-wearable aesthetic to be the product of the techniques involved, but this is certainly not true. The luxurious fabrics used within the pieces bring a softness to the obvious accentuated waistlines, shoulders and necklines, backed up by the sombre colour palette.
