The beautiful city of Milan plays host to the second last fashion week of September, with famous designers and labels such as Moschino, MSGM, Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni, Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli and Giorgio Armani showcasing their upcoming collections for the Spring/Summer season. My favourites from this season include:
It's wonder to see how Karl Lagerfeld, being the Creative Director of both Chanel and Fendi, can diversify and adapt to the different design aesthetics of these two illustrious fashion houses. Karl's collection for Fendi is abundant in space-aged sheer layering, creating a juxtaposition of femininity against the hardness of the technological. To further enhance this, coats and jackets feature patterns reminiscent of conduit boards and displaced triangular tessellations are present in the latter half of the collection.
Costume National is one of those fashion houses whose intermittent repertoire is a rarity, and whose influence on fashion is apparent but unknown to many. The Italian fashion house has shown a very grounded and effortlessly stylish collection, focusing on warping essential womenswear staples such as white waistcoats, tea and cocktail dresses via the cut outs along the decolletages and hems and placement of sheers. The perfect collection for a woman whose style embodies the climax of minimalist and cubist details.
Prada never ceases to amaze the fashion industry with its consistently eccentric aesthetic, which so often changes, but has managed to set the benchmark for other underdog fashion designers and labels with its distinguishable look and feel. Amongst the street art and graffiti filled venue, models donning garments featuring eloquent encrusted jewels, vibrant colours and the odd artistic portraits of women walked the stage. A closer look at the collection forces one to question whether the leg-warmers are a hit or a miss, but there's no doubt that the footwear and handbags are going to be a hit amongst the mass.
Bottega Veneta's earthy and grounded aesthetic is the label's signature, and has been translated so once again in their Spring/Summer 2014 collection. What stands out in this collection is the layering, draping and fabric creases within the dresses, which, rather than adding weight and heaviness, bring a sense of lightness - a hard feat to achieve especially in these techniques. Undeniably sophisticated, the collection has been designed for the understated woman who loves the weight and feel of textured fabrics combined with expert craftsmanship.
The architect of fashion, aka Gianfranco Ferre, and his geometric and cubist approach to fashion has been carried on by the Creative Directors of his label, with the Spring/Summer 2014 collection making that evident. With the architectural construction of these garments, you'd assume more a harsh and non-wearable aesthetic to be the product of the techniques involved, but this is certainly not true. The luxurious fabrics used within the pieces bring a softness to the obvious accentuated waistlines, shoulders and necklines, backed up by the sombre colour palette.
Images courtesy of Fashionising