Fashion Month for this year ends with the Fashion Capital itself - Paris. As this week is the most anticipated week of the calendar for the fashion industry, expectations are always high, but in such a transitional phase of fashion, in regards to the change of designers and creative directors in both Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent and a wonderful opportunity for devotees of Nicola Formichetti and the first ever luxury bag collection released by Mugler in conjunction with their womenswear collection, there was a sense of both tension and excitement in the air.
The first 3 days of Paris Fashion Week included shows from prolific designers such as Guy Laroche, Alexis Mabille, Dries Van Noten, Balenciaga, Carven, Nina Ricci, Lanvin, Balmain and Ann Demeulemeester.
First of all, I must mention the opportunity that the wacky and wonderful Nicola Formichetti presented to loyal followers of the brand, where 5 followers of Nicola Formichetti on Tumblr got the chance to come into the Mugler showroom and preview the collection personally! What a humble way to bring customers closer to the designs at the heart of the time when none of their latest designs have been previewed by media.
Anyway, my favourite collections from the first 3 days are as follows:
Cedric Charlier Spring/Summer 2013
|Meshing, minimalism and the intense hits of orange run throughout Cedric Charlier's latest collection|
Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2013
Damir Doma's design aesthetic has significantly evolved since its earlier days, transforming from a dark and brooding choice of aesthetic to one that is futuristic and sophisticated, letting go of its former architectural stiffness and embracing a more functional choice of fabrics. The latest collection from Damir Doma references the chic trends of the late 90s, with halter tops and leather capris making an appearance amongst its signature intimidating sunglass designs and contemporary minimal outfits.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista Spring/Summer 2013
|Felipe Oliveira Baptista effectively combines juxtaposing elements of maximalism and minimalism together, by splashing minimalist architectural garments with a variety of maximalist prints|
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2013
Gareth Pugh is known as the Dark Prince of Fashion, but in his latest collection he takes off that persona and reveals a much more emotional side to himself and his designs. To me, this collection and runway show is one of the most emotionally charged I have ever seen - the show featured models walking ever so slowly to an eerily beautiful, heartbreaking melody, which complemented the make up of the models, who had fake tears running from bloodshot eyes, further adding to the atmosphere of the show and collection. Gareth always uses feminine flowing fabrics and have made very rigid garments conveying strength, but in this collection, he does not alter the material but place it on the woman's body to let the natural flow be seen when in movement, a sign of his diversity and immense skill. The appearance of blindingly beautiful red in this collection is indicative of a deep pain, in my opinion at least, which effectively brings people closer to the designs, as opposed to the past when Gareth's garments were more standoffish.
Moon Young He Spring/Summer 2013
|Moon Young He's panelled leather dresses may set to be a trend for this coming Spring/Summer season|
Nicolas Andreas Taralis Spring/Summer 2013
|Androgyny is certainly a trend of the times, with Nicolas Andreas Taralis presenting functional unisex garments that can even be used throughout the colder months of the year|
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2013
It seems that Gareth Pugh is not the only designer of the darker streams of fashion to show his diversity in fashion design, and I'm referring to Rick Owens. The mysteriously humble designer is much the same as Gareth Pugh, often opting for a monochromatic colour palette and hard edged designs, but Rick's garments are unisex, androgynous, functional and futuristic. Rick has abandoned this aesthetic for this coming Spring/Summer season, with a womenswear collection that does not show any signs of ability for use by the opposite sex, as all of his collections always do - it is odd to think that such a pioneer of the androgynous, minimalist style has seemed to designed a collection exclusively for one gender. The collection featured lightweight tunics and off the shoulder dresses, some drawing inspiration from avant-garde depictions of angels and some reflecting those in ancient Mediterranean civilizations. Rick's ability to capture history and twist it into the future is undeniable, again showing his diversity in fashion design.
All images courtesy of Fashionising
All runway shows can be viewed on FashionTV and FataleFashionII's Youtube Channel