Day 3 consisted of shows from the imaginary Ann Demeulemeester, Berluti, the ever popularizing Comme Des Garcons, John Galliano, half of the designer duo for Comme Des Garcons Junya Watanabe, and the futurist Boris Bidjan Saberi.
My favourite collections from the day came from Juun.J, Kris Van Assche and Givenchy by CFDA Award winner and definitely one of my favourite Creative Directors Riccardo Tisci.
Juun.J's latest collection is a mixture of minimalist fashion from east and west, with button ups' and blazers' buttons hidden under the seam and forming a butterfly split at the front, silk coats that are reminiscent of Eastern robes, loose fitting trousers and oversized kimono shirts. The collection once again addresses the emerging trend of head to toe monochromatic, with the main colours being white, black and creams, and of course a touch of neon could not be avoided.
Kris Van Assche SS13
Kris Van Assche has brought in some of the '90s statement trends, such as long sleeve shirts under short sleeves , the denim cap, the clean denim vest and low rise baggy shorts, but in ultimate minimalist style. I've noticed that both Givenchy and Kris Van Assche have been releasing the long sleeve under short sleeve look in recent times in their lookbooks and collections, and I'm sure it's going to catch on, since this look is very wearable and doesn't compromise the dynamics of Kris's designs. Kris has gone one step further by creating a short sleeve blazer that lies over long sleeves of the same material and the printed button ups gives the illusion that the shirts are made from three different materials, indicating his love and extraordinary ability of tweaking the most staple of garments to create lasting, wearable statement pieces.
Riccardo Tisci has brought to us probably his most peaceful and harmonious collection for Givenchy, turning his back on bold and extravagant statement prints to more calm artwear. Baby pink is seen in this collection, as was in Givenchy's Cruise collection, and Riccardo manages to create surprisingly masculine garments using this effeminate colour, even with the use of sheer organza. Riccardo has already managed to bring in the silk kilt for men without them looking feminine, so it's no surprise he's done so with this colour and collection. Silk bomber jackets and silk crew jumpers are Riccardo's signature pieces, with each one in this collection being stamped with haunting images of women or modern watercolour paintings reflecting Medieval-Renaissance times, some featuring the signature Givenchy stars. The most intriguing piece of the silk bombers and crew jumpers is the white silk bomber, the print so subtle it seems ghostly. There is no denying that Riccardo deserved his CFDA Award, his collections for Givenchy bringing the label to an audience in my generation and redeeming it from it's off limits status, and this collection shows his diversity, only furthering his reign over high-end menswear.