The second day of Paris Men's Fashion Week encompassed shows from Phillip Lim, the avant-garde Henrik Vibskov, the simply stylish Kolor, Walter Van Beirendonck, the legendary Yohji Yamamoto and a presentation from the one and only Jean Paul Gaultier.
The best collections from the day included some of my all time favourite designers - Viktor & Rolf, Rick Owens, Issey Miyake and Dries Van Noten.
Viktor & Rolf SS13
Viktor & Rolf have strayed away from its usual "gentlemen's club" look by bringing in a more bold colour palette and relaxed fitting garments. Carrot trousers are aplenty in this collection, accompanied by unique knits featuring shattered mirror details or varied mesh styles. The calming colour palette tones down the uniform prints, and one colour stood out - orange, on various degrees, as dark as desert sand to as clean as peach. Metallic sneakers finish off the outfits with a street smart feel.
Rick Owens SS13
As one of the pioneers of minimalist fashion, Rick Owens never seems to disappoint. This collection features classic gentlemen's tailoring, something not often explored by Mr. Owens, but he added his own twist to these looks, by bringing back leg warmers and bringing in open toed wedges and sandals for the man. Not only this, but the tailored garments are made from a ghostly translucent material. Along with his futuristic fashion, Rick's shows are eerie and creepy, to say the least, distinguishing himself from most high-end fashion labels. Rick Owens has always been one of fashion's advocates for the future of androgyny, with the "man-dress" (co-designed by Romain Kremer) debut marking his true vision for his label, and this piece made a comeback this season, with no alteration at all, cementing the fact that this piece defines his label. Rick will always be one of my favourite designers, purely for the fact that his vision for his label is uninterrupted, and this has granted him much respect in the fashion industry.
Issey Miyake SS13
Issey Miyake has stayed true its Japanese roots by presenting overly oversized shirts and stiff shoulders, reminiscent of traditional Samurai attire. The use of various mesh styles, nylon and shiny leather heighten the attention to detail in each garment, relying on emphasis of the shape and material of the garment to make a statement and straying away from typical Spring/Summer trends. The collection features one of a kind vertical tie dye that accentuates one's height when worn, whether it be tops or bottoms. Mr. Miyake has finished off the outfits with leather sneakers, an ever emerging trend in menswear.
Dries Van Noten SS13
Dries Van Noten never lets me down with its collections, especially for menswear, and this is the case once again for Spring/Summer 2013. The first thing that strikes to the viewer is the smoky camouflage print, that flows throughout the collection, and the complementary colour palette of various hues of blue, orange, brown, white and khaki. The mix of these colours and often a dash of the camouflage in either a green or brown hue with classic tailoring, solidifies the fusion both the past, present and future, apparent in Dries Van Noten's collection. Materials such as clear vinyl, quilted cotton and metallic leather adds truly dynamic character, whilst the oddly strapped sandals brings that touch of relaxation. This collection does not present the modern gentlemen, but rather, the future gentleman.
All images courtesy of Fashionising