London Collections: Men Autumn/Winter 2014

Jonathan Saunders Autumn/Winter 2014

British menswear is unlike any other men's fashion scene in the world. British men have a style that is eclectic and vibrant yet they have nothing to prove - they dress this way because they love to, not because they have to. London Collections: Men gives an opportunity for British menswear designers to showcase what they have conjured for the coming Autumn/Winter 2014 season, and I have created a series of photo-mosaics of the key pieces from the designers' collections of the best from the three day event:

E. Tautz

The orderliness of E. Tautz upcoming collection is balanced with a hint of boldness, due to the eye-catching geometric prints that appear on the garments all throughout, whether pieced together or discreetly in the form of an accessory. The varied colour palette of dark blues, grey, camel and vivid red only emphasize this balance of high sartorial and noncommittal approach to minimalism and artwear, and is perfect for men who are not as confident in showing a bit of flare in their fashion sense.  

James Long

Mixing minimal and the outrageous seems to be quite a knack that some designers are displaying as of late, with one such designer being James Long. Throughout the collection, pieces such as well-fit track pants, monotone sneakers and sunglasses are uniform, whilst outerwear takes on a more resolute role. Oddly quilted coats and spray jackets  and sweaters featuring prints reminiscent of the cyberspace of Tron couple with the uniform, reflecting the trend of lone statement pieces within men's outfits, but in futuristic style.

Matthew Miller

The tiniest details are what have always stood out in Matthew Miller's collections, alongside the eye-blinding colour choices, but in his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, a darker turn has arisen. The darker colour palette consisting of greens, blues and blacks is rarely chosen by this designer, but he has done so successfully by ensuring the garments still have elements of the adventurous. The outstanding detail throughout the collection is the stitching together of the same coloured materials in the trousers, subtly altering the boxy silhouette of men. 

Oliver Spencer

Oliver Spencer's signature style is once again shown flawlessly in his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection. A mix of casual and formal, yet keeping to vivid colours such as bright orange, heathered grey and differing shades of blue, is typical of this British designer. The odd print here and there is present, to complement the tailored looks with movement and interest.

Topman

Fast fashion isn't always a stampede of trends coming at you, as Topman proves with their designer collection every season. Topman's collection is focused on the quality of the garments, with a specially curated few dictating over the usual turnover of trends within its stores. This season's collection relies heavily on the slightly risky turtleneck, textural trousers and altering men's highly sartorial silhouette. 

Burberry Prorsum

Following Burberry's leopard and hearts prints from the Spring/Summer collection, a more calm yet subtly patriotic collection was shown. An emphasis on silk scarves, wrapped around the collar of the men, questionable totes and dynamic outerwear, was easy to spot. The presence of the mesh wife beater did not hinder on the spirited pieces throughout the collection, including scarves with London maps, but rather complemented them, and even diversifies the collection into a trans-seasonal one. 

For a preview of all the British designers' collections, head to www.londoncollections.co.uk

Images courtesy of Fashionising

Mosaics by Christoffer Aguilar

Sneakerboy Sydney

Sneakerboy, Australia's latest luxury footwear and streetwear chain, is opening in Sydney on Saturday, December 14th! If you don't know about these guys yet, it's mainly because the retailer has kept a low profile to the mass and has concentrated on their target market. The retailer allows Australian guys who have a taste for the luxurious but want to keep things urban a chance to get their hands on world-renowned labels and designer collections in a relaxed environment. 

Sneakerboy has hit a gap in the market in Australia successfully, with sneakers from coveted labels such as Givenchy, Raf Simons, Maison Martin Margiela, Rick Owens, Pierre Hardy, Lanvin and the legendary Alexander McQueen, being difficult to find in brick-and-mortar stores around Sydney and Melbourne. In sync with their launch in Sydney, the retailer has offered two promotions to customers! The first is a chance to WIN some of your favourite sneakers from the retailer and the second is FREE Sneakerboy denim at their Sydney launch! 

For details on how to win your sneakers wishlist and get free Sneakerboy denim, head to www.sneakerboy.com

Images courtesy of Sneakerboy

Dance of the Dior Man

Dutch-English men's fashion journal, Fantastic Man, and Kris Van Assche for Dior Homme have collaborated for a series of hip-hop and pop-jazz dance videos as part of their campaign for the fashion house's Autumn/Winer 2013 Menswear collection. The series, called "Rotation" is an obvious hit at the younger luxury fashion conscious market, especially with the use of energising EDM music produced by Simon Britton and Cliff Randall.

Another element that contributes to the series' appeal to the younger generation is the titles of each film. They all have one thing in common - they inspire. Titles including "100% Every Day", "Whatever It Takes" and the awe-inspiring "Work Hard, Change History" push the no doubt young gentlemen who watch to achieve their ambitions and dreams, a positive message amongst the negative impression fashion sometimes gives.

Follow this link to watch the films

Images and videos courtesy of the official Christian Dior Youtube Channel

Rockin' 'n' Runnin'

Sneaker freakers all over the world travel to find the best and rare sneakers to add to their collection, and I have a feeling that the minimalistic charm of Valentino Rockrunners are going to be on their wishlist. I myself am an avid sneaker fan, owning more than the average person should have, but there's no going past the comfort and versatility of such footwear. Valentino Rockrunners, from pure observation, are stylish, comfortable and functional. The sneakers possess the right amount of hits of colour throughout the range, cleated soles and a discreet rubber stud detail at the heel, making the shoe is suitable for all sneaker freakers no matter what their taste.
Video courtesy of the official Valentino Youtube channel
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GIF-induced Menswear Overload!

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2014

The "revolutionary" reblogging central called Tumblr has brought about the overuse of the GIF image file. More often than not, these image files causes headaches and maybe even the odd puke, and I'm sorry if this has caused you to do so. But, I confess, I can look at these repetitive and seizure-inducing Spring/Summer 2014 menswear GIFs with ease. I can't help but wonder that maybe this is how fashion shows may be viewed in the future, especially because of the rapidity of information flowing throughout the world and the constant demand for swiftness in the exchange of information. Warning: These images may cause a fashion overload!

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2014

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2014

Neil Barrett Spring/Summer 2014

Prada Spring/Summer 2014

All GIFs were designed by Paul Wagenblast

Images courtesy of Dazed and Confused

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The Crows and The Peacocks

The impeccable style of men over the last 2 weeks have been outstanding. The comeback of the fashionable man is well and truly here, and as famed fashion critic Suzy Menkes says about the street style phenomenon, "There are the Crows and the Peacocks". Well, it looks like women have a formidable force of fashion to reckon with - the man. Here are some of the best street style from London Collections: Men, Milan Men's Fashion Week and Paris Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014...

Images courtesy of Street FSN and Tommy Ton for GQ

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The Best of Paris Men's Fashion Week S/S14

The Father of Men's Fashion Weeks brought about new waves of creativity and trends from some of the world's most renowned luxury labels. The scout boy look returned with Louis Vuitton, the comeback of the controversial colour, pink, from Paul Smith, an extravagant heavy metal show from Rick Owens brought about the unveiling of Adidas x Rick Owens collaborative shoe line and Riccardo Tisci produced a mechanically tribal collection for Givenchy. The notable collections included:

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014

Remnants of the outrageous prints from the 1980's consumerist regime of media were scattered throughout the latest offering from Raf Simons. Mismatching shapes, juxtaposed inanimate items on eye-catching patterns and Dali-inspired Surrealism on highly structural garments was what Raf wants men to wear for the coming season. Not to mention the shoes, showing Raf's ability to warp the much-loved sneaker into more of a masterpiece than they were already.

John Galliano Spring/Summer 2014

Bill Gaytten's collection for John Galliano is surprising change compared to the avant-garde aesthetic of John himself and to last year's lobster-clad collection. A boxy silhouette for men was opted for the coming Spring/Summer season, but with harmonious colours such as red, canary yellow and navy blue, the geometric silhouette is easier on the eye. Mosaic tiled trousers, sequin embellished blazers and shirting, kimono polo shirts and platform oxfords added a dynamic depth to the collection. 

Kenzo 

The in-your-face designs of Opening Ceremony duo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, have undoubtedly changed the face of Kenzo since their inception. After a streak of jungle-inspired pieces abundant in their collections, it seems the pair are transitioning into a more, dare I say, bearable aesthetic. Their Spring/Summer 2014 collection channels Seapunk in a manner of subtlety - the various shades of blue, prints depicting sea waves and sea foam as illustrated by the Ancient Japanese and the motif of the rip curl all point to this subculture. Blending these motifs into carefully constructed garments makes for an outstanding collection from the pair.

Dior Homme 

As I've mentioned many times, appropriating art into fashion takes a well-skilled and experienced designer to do so without damaging the repertoire of the designer and the artist. Kris Van Assche has brought the Mondrian print, as popularised by the late Yves Saint Laurent, into his latest menswear collection, but in a discreet colour palette of ox blood, greys and blues. The artwork appears silently throughout the minimal garments, creating a distinct geometric collection for the modern man who adores Dior.

Images courtesy of Fashionising

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