Walter Van Beirendonck's Reformist Fashion

Anti-terrorism, homosexual pride, body confidence and gender-bending androgyny. Walter Van Beirendonck, the quirkiest of the original Antwerp Six, always strive to stray from the mainstream. With his Fall/Winter 2015 menswear collection, the lumberjack looking designer aims to punch current social issues in the face.

At first, the oddness of the collection is apparent, but details that run throughout the clothing and the makeup for the show, are references to issues that need to be resolved. The collection started with a cat-eye clad male model wearing a clear PVC singlet with the words "STOP TERRORISING OUR WORLD" emblazoned onto it - an obvious provoking shout at terrorist organisations that have felt the need to exercise their distaste for humanity. Already off on a roll, the next singlet with the words "WARNING: EXPLICIT BEAUTY" subverts one's perception of the ideal body image by emphasising that the way one looks is already beautiful.

As the show went on, necklaces and brooches containing discreet homosexual sexual toys were commonplace. Although not as loud as the anti-terrorism and body confidence messages relayed, an unnecessary hidden pride of one's sexuality can be interpreted. Not a collection to be trendy, but a collection to push social reform.

Images courtesy of Dazed Digital

WISHLIST | "You First" Sweatshirt by Acne Studios

"You First" - a phrase that is unfortunately rare nowadays. It seems as though most of us are out there purely for ourselves, and never take the time to perform random acts of kindness to strangers. Strangers, what an insidious word to use, let me correct myself - people. Let them go first, give that change in your pocket to a donation box, get up out of your seat for someone else. It all matters!

Shop more Acne at www.oki-ni.com

Image: Fucking Young!

OUTRAGE | Robots of Riccardo

Simeon Georgiev's Nike Robotics series sees the infusion of fashion and technology, symbolizing the male model in his robotic stature, carelessly displaying clothes he may not even want to wear. These artworks are a discrete reminder of the inevitable fusion of man and machine, and ever more so now because just recently, his artworks have expanded, incorporating iconic Givenchy elements into the robots. 

At first glance it may just seem cool, but the fact that Givenchy was chosen as the motif may not be a coincidence. The overwhelming acclaim the Creative Director, Riccardo Tisci, has been receiving over the last 4 years has made many around the world followers of the once bourgeois fashion house. The fact that the robots are male and aren't physiologically attuned to what they're doing are reflective of his empirical grip on pushing forward the trends in men's fashion, without many men aware of the fashion house they've fell in love with.

View the full series of Givenchy Nike Robotics by Simeon Georgiev HERE.

Source: Highsnobiety

OUTRAGE | Male Body Image: Thom Browne and Hedi Slimane

A male model at Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2015 feeling the pump

The Spring/Summer 2015 menswear season has just ended, and may be one of the most radical - unusual yet intriguing styling, unorthodox headwear and a general flurry of graphically blinding prints filled the collections of London, Milan and Paris designer labels. But, it seems as though two designers, who are vastly different from each other, has tackled two sides of male body image and confidence head on.

There is no denying that a health and fitness revolution has struck the general population, and this has certainly been targeted by the blatantly obvious bodybuilding parodical designs of Thom Browne (as above). The Spring/Summer 2015 collection featured a myriad of padded blazers, jackets and pants exaggerating the muscle groups bodybuilders aim to pump up. It's plain and simple: Thom strikes at the heart of the resurgence of bodybuilding by conveying this physique as nothing but a fleeting trend, and how it correlates with the coming and going of trends in fashion. It's ridiculous to see clothing that reflects the body image, but that's how Thom is - he always strives to shove it in your face. Always an advocate for the avant-garde and risky, Thom has definitely challenged the realness of what dedicated muscle men are really striving for.

On the other hand, the comparatively small frames of the male models within Hedi Slimane's Spring/Summer 2015 collection for Saint Laurent Paris created a stir. An ode to a time when a man's natural physique was glorified, Hedi has also challenged the ideal male body image today. But, seeing these delicate men walk down the runway forces us to question whether the strive for thinness that is rampant amongst female models is being placed upon male models too. Whether or not these men are naturally or forcibly thin, I don't know, but at least there was a modern-day Jimi Hendrix to clear the air of shock (below).

Jimi Hendrix, is that you?

As a man, the pressure to become your best physical self is popping up everywhere. No doubt, these two designers have given us something to think about - male body image. Speaking as a young men adept to the rapidity of marketing, I believe men should be proud of their body no matter if they are striving for a better physique and health status or comfortable where they are. C'mon guys, stand with pride!

Images courtesy of Style.com

SABA AW14

SABA is one of Australia's underestimated prized gems in the fashion industry. The brand has continually offered tailored style that reflects the architectural minimalism that is rarely pulled off by designers who try to copy the largely European trend. Collaborating with acclaimed fashion creatives including Harper's Bazaar and Elle photographer, Justin Cooper, and Vogue Italia hair stylist, Richard Kavanagh, the Autumn/Winter 2014 lookbook is representative of the fine luxury that SABA channels into the Australian fashion scene. Arran Sly, who regularly models for Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein campaigns, is the muse for menswear this season, showcasing the brand's first half-canvas suit prudently. The campaign emphasises the crisp detail that superficial and overly elaborate campaigns fail to present to the mass, and this is thanks to the Creative Direction of Three60.

SABA's Autumn/Winter 2014 collection will be available in-stores and online at www.saba.com.au this month

Credits

Creative Direction Three60

Photography Justin Cooper

Hair Richard Kavanagh

Model Arran Sly from DNA Models New York

Makeup Amanda Reardon

Styling Caterina Scardino

Images courtesy of GoLightly PR

London Collections: Men Autumn/Winter 2014

Jonathan Saunders Autumn/Winter 2014

British menswear is unlike any other men's fashion scene in the world. British men have a style that is eclectic and vibrant yet they have nothing to prove - they dress this way because they love to, not because they have to. London Collections: Men gives an opportunity for British menswear designers to showcase what they have conjured for the coming Autumn/Winter 2014 season, and I have created a series of photo-mosaics of the key pieces from the designers' collections of the best from the three day event:

E. Tautz

The orderliness of E. Tautz upcoming collection is balanced with a hint of boldness, due to the eye-catching geometric prints that appear on the garments all throughout, whether pieced together or discreetly in the form of an accessory. The varied colour palette of dark blues, grey, camel and vivid red only emphasize this balance of high sartorial and noncommittal approach to minimalism and artwear, and is perfect for men who are not as confident in showing a bit of flare in their fashion sense.  

James Long

Mixing minimal and the outrageous seems to be quite a knack that some designers are displaying as of late, with one such designer being James Long. Throughout the collection, pieces such as well-fit track pants, monotone sneakers and sunglasses are uniform, whilst outerwear takes on a more resolute role. Oddly quilted coats and spray jackets  and sweaters featuring prints reminiscent of the cyberspace of Tron couple with the uniform, reflecting the trend of lone statement pieces within men's outfits, but in futuristic style.

Matthew Miller

The tiniest details are what have always stood out in Matthew Miller's collections, alongside the eye-blinding colour choices, but in his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, a darker turn has arisen. The darker colour palette consisting of greens, blues and blacks is rarely chosen by this designer, but he has done so successfully by ensuring the garments still have elements of the adventurous. The outstanding detail throughout the collection is the stitching together of the same coloured materials in the trousers, subtly altering the boxy silhouette of men. 

Oliver Spencer

Oliver Spencer's signature style is once again shown flawlessly in his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection. A mix of casual and formal, yet keeping to vivid colours such as bright orange, heathered grey and differing shades of blue, is typical of this British designer. The odd print here and there is present, to complement the tailored looks with movement and interest.

Topman

Fast fashion isn't always a stampede of trends coming at you, as Topman proves with their designer collection every season. Topman's collection is focused on the quality of the garments, with a specially curated few dictating over the usual turnover of trends within its stores. This season's collection relies heavily on the slightly risky turtleneck, textural trousers and altering men's highly sartorial silhouette. 

Burberry Prorsum

Following Burberry's leopard and hearts prints from the Spring/Summer collection, a more calm yet subtly patriotic collection was shown. An emphasis on silk scarves, wrapped around the collar of the men, questionable totes and dynamic outerwear, was easy to spot. The presence of the mesh wife beater did not hinder on the spirited pieces throughout the collection, including scarves with London maps, but rather complemented them, and even diversifies the collection into a trans-seasonal one. 

For a preview of all the British designers' collections, head to www.londoncollections.co.uk

Images courtesy of Fashionising

Mosaics by Christoffer Aguilar

Dance of the Dior Man

Dutch-English men's fashion journal, Fantastic Man, and Kris Van Assche for Dior Homme have collaborated for a series of hip-hop and pop-jazz dance videos as part of their campaign for the fashion house's Autumn/Winer 2013 Menswear collection. The series, called "Rotation" is an obvious hit at the younger luxury fashion conscious market, especially with the use of energising EDM music produced by Simon Britton and Cliff Randall.

Another element that contributes to the series' appeal to the younger generation is the titles of each film. They all have one thing in common - they inspire. Titles including "100% Every Day", "Whatever It Takes" and the awe-inspiring "Work Hard, Change History" push the no doubt young gentlemen who watch to achieve their ambitions and dreams, a positive message amongst the negative impression fashion sometimes gives.

Follow this link to watch the films

Images and videos courtesy of the official Christian Dior Youtube Channel

Tales of the Cold

The bitter cold may be a thing of the past here down under, but as the Spring/Summer 2014 collections are being showcased, simultaneously, gear for the long Winter is filling the shelves of stores in the Northern hemisphere. Fendi's new fashion film, named "Neverwinter Tale", is an injection of calm before the cold hits. The slow-motion cinematography of the film manages to emphasize the cuts, details and materials of the individual pieces of the illustrious label's Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection. The colour palette of the collection go hand in hand with the visuals of the film, perfectly reflecting the sallow blues of the colder months. Allow the soothing film fill your mind below...

Images courtesy of HipHopPotHead and Selectism

Video courtesy of Highsnobiety

Rockin' 'n' Runnin'

Sneaker freakers all over the world travel to find the best and rare sneakers to add to their collection, and I have a feeling that the minimalistic charm of Valentino Rockrunners are going to be on their wishlist. I myself am an avid sneaker fan, owning more than the average person should have, but there's no going past the comfort and versatility of such footwear. Valentino Rockrunners, from pure observation, are stylish, comfortable and functional. The sneakers possess the right amount of hits of colour throughout the range, cleated soles and a discreet rubber stud detail at the heel, making the shoe is suitable for all sneaker freakers no matter what their taste.
Video courtesy of the official Valentino Youtube channel
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GIF-induced Menswear Overload!

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2014

The "revolutionary" reblogging central called Tumblr has brought about the overuse of the GIF image file. More often than not, these image files causes headaches and maybe even the odd puke, and I'm sorry if this has caused you to do so. But, I confess, I can look at these repetitive and seizure-inducing Spring/Summer 2014 menswear GIFs with ease. I can't help but wonder that maybe this is how fashion shows may be viewed in the future, especially because of the rapidity of information flowing throughout the world and the constant demand for swiftness in the exchange of information. Warning: These images may cause a fashion overload!

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2014

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2014

Neil Barrett Spring/Summer 2014

Prada Spring/Summer 2014

All GIFs were designed by Paul Wagenblast

Images courtesy of Dazed and Confused

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The Crows and The Peacocks

The impeccable style of men over the last 2 weeks have been outstanding. The comeback of the fashionable man is well and truly here, and as famed fashion critic Suzy Menkes says about the street style phenomenon, "There are the Crows and the Peacocks". Well, it looks like women have a formidable force of fashion to reckon with - the man. Here are some of the best street style from London Collections: Men, Milan Men's Fashion Week and Paris Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014...

Images courtesy of Street FSN and Tommy Ton for GQ

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