London Collections: Men Autumn/Winter 2014

Jonathan Saunders Autumn/Winter 2014

British menswear is unlike any other men's fashion scene in the world. British men have a style that is eclectic and vibrant yet they have nothing to prove - they dress this way because they love to, not because they have to. London Collections: Men gives an opportunity for British menswear designers to showcase what they have conjured for the coming Autumn/Winter 2014 season, and I have created a series of photo-mosaics of the key pieces from the designers' collections of the best from the three day event:

E. Tautz

The orderliness of E. Tautz upcoming collection is balanced with a hint of boldness, due to the eye-catching geometric prints that appear on the garments all throughout, whether pieced together or discreetly in the form of an accessory. The varied colour palette of dark blues, grey, camel and vivid red only emphasize this balance of high sartorial and noncommittal approach to minimalism and artwear, and is perfect for men who are not as confident in showing a bit of flare in their fashion sense.  

James Long

Mixing minimal and the outrageous seems to be quite a knack that some designers are displaying as of late, with one such designer being James Long. Throughout the collection, pieces such as well-fit track pants, monotone sneakers and sunglasses are uniform, whilst outerwear takes on a more resolute role. Oddly quilted coats and spray jackets  and sweaters featuring prints reminiscent of the cyberspace of Tron couple with the uniform, reflecting the trend of lone statement pieces within men's outfits, but in futuristic style.

Matthew Miller

The tiniest details are what have always stood out in Matthew Miller's collections, alongside the eye-blinding colour choices, but in his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, a darker turn has arisen. The darker colour palette consisting of greens, blues and blacks is rarely chosen by this designer, but he has done so successfully by ensuring the garments still have elements of the adventurous. The outstanding detail throughout the collection is the stitching together of the same coloured materials in the trousers, subtly altering the boxy silhouette of men. 

Oliver Spencer

Oliver Spencer's signature style is once again shown flawlessly in his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection. A mix of casual and formal, yet keeping to vivid colours such as bright orange, heathered grey and differing shades of blue, is typical of this British designer. The odd print here and there is present, to complement the tailored looks with movement and interest.

Topman

Fast fashion isn't always a stampede of trends coming at you, as Topman proves with their designer collection every season. Topman's collection is focused on the quality of the garments, with a specially curated few dictating over the usual turnover of trends within its stores. This season's collection relies heavily on the slightly risky turtleneck, textural trousers and altering men's highly sartorial silhouette. 

Burberry Prorsum

Following Burberry's leopard and hearts prints from the Spring/Summer collection, a more calm yet subtly patriotic collection was shown. An emphasis on silk scarves, wrapped around the collar of the men, questionable totes and dynamic outerwear, was easy to spot. The presence of the mesh wife beater did not hinder on the spirited pieces throughout the collection, including scarves with London maps, but rather complemented them, and even diversifies the collection into a trans-seasonal one. 

For a preview of all the British designers' collections, head to www.londoncollections.co.uk

Images courtesy of Fashionising

Mosaics by Christoffer Aguilar

London Collections: Men, Day 1

The sartorial scene of London menswear is one of diversity, ranging from designers influenced by the more innovative streams of fashion and others staying true to the strict tailored looks of Savile Row. London Collections: Men was started to present to the world the underestimated world of British menswear, and it is exactly what it has done. From all the designers who showed on Day 1, these designers should be noted for their collections:

Kay Kwok Spring/Summer 2014

There seems to be a myriad of designers trying to catch up with Raf Simons, who is leading the pack for Dior, but it seems as though Kay Kwok may well be on his way to dethroning Monsieur Simons. The designer has presented a menswear collection that exemplifies his pragmatic aesthetic, the first few pieces being minimal and crisp with finer details such as geometric fabric panels on jackets and elongated top fronts. As the minimal pieces passed, a neo-futuristic turn came around.

Non-cliché digital prints of halos were scattered amongst the final few pieces presented by the designer. There's a suspicion that this could've not worked if the colour was not picked righteously, but the hints of indigo and salmon pink throughout the print are discreet yet enmesh well with the minimal aesthetic. Raf Simons better watch out, Mr. Kwok is on his way...

Jonathan Saunders Spring/Summer 2014

Jonathan Saunders always manages to twist the restrictive image of business wear into ensembles encompassing warped appropriations of the original garment. What's interesting about Jonathan's approach to this fashion stream is that it is subtle - from far away the clothing seems well-fitted at most, but up-close bears so much more dynamic. Business shirts and summer shorts with monochromatic digital prints, gradient red panelled and dotted trousers and jackets featuring zig zagged detail are some of the examples of this designers twisted creations. At least twisted to your professional counterparts. 

Richard Nicoll Spring/Summer 2014

Effortless style is, contrary to say, hard to achieve. Everyone knows it's all about the attitude and the way you approach your own sense of style, so if you are the type of man who opts to go for a more relaxed look without looking daggy, look to Richard Nicoll's latest collection for inspiration. The collection features the revived "suit-and-sneaker" look, but much more appropriate to the younger fashion-conscious man, especially those with the sense of style just mentioned. Bring in pieces such as the inverted metallic parka and silk snakeskin chinos to counter act the uniformity of white shirting, structured bombers and plain canvas sneakers to effectively achieve style that is both easy and interesting to the eye.

FOR THE COMPLETE SCHEDULE OF LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN, CLICK HERE

Images courtesy of Fashionising

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Let the Fashion Weeks, begin!

The Fashion Weeks are about to begin again and as per usual, the men are first to show off their sartorial ability. The dapper capital of UK is once again playing host to London Collections: Men, a series of fashion shows from the best of british menswear designers and labels. London Collections have shown to the world countless times the sartorial history and future of the fashion capital of London, and there's high expectations. Just one day away, the established and emerging designers of London are no doubt going through chaotic preparation for their shows. 
For a little taste of what trends and designers we will see, watch the London Collections: Men video, directed by Matt Lambert. Featuring pieces from well-known British designers and labels such as fast fashion success Topman, Burberry, Jonathan Saunders, Martine Rose, classic couturier Hardy Amies, Sibling and Richard James, who will all be showing during the Week, a story of the tri-personalities of the fashionable British man and their influence on menswear trends is made clear throughout the film. LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN IS ON FROM 15th -18th JUNE For the show schedule including which designers are streaming LIVE, CLICK HERE
Images courtesy of Client Magazine Video courtesy of Dazed Digital SUBSCRIBE

London Collections: Men, Day 2

With the unbelievable talent and skill shown in the designers' collections in Day 1 of London Collections: Men, Day 2 was sure to offer more than expected.

Day 2 included shows from Sibling, Mr Start, MAN by Shaun Samson, Alex Mattson and Matthew Miller. The best collections for me from Day 2 were from James Long, Katie Eary, Jonathan Saunders and Christopher Shannon .

James Long SS13

Minimalist sophistication can best describe James Long's latest collection - the calming tones of navy blue in different textures and patterns backs up the monochromatic trend for men. The attention to detail is astounding, especially on the kilts and the printed sweaters, making every garment or piece in the collection a piece of art worth having in your wardrobe.

WATCH THE RUNWAY SHOW HERE

Katie Eary SS13

Eccentric fashion design is often misunderstood, to me, it's about looking at each individual piece and how they can become a staple statement garment. Although the prints in this collection are based on vibrant sea creatures, there's no telling when they are so beautifully designed. The styling definitely reminds me of Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, I think Jeremy Scott and Versace should have a run for their money with Katie Eary's creations for this season! 

WATCH THE RUNWAY SHOW HERE

Jonathan Saunders SS13

Fashion designers show true skill with their creativity when it comes to presenting their latest collections through alternative means. Jonathan Saunders showed his latest collection in an art installation - the models and garments seen as both sculpture and hanger. The installation is like a modern take on Pop Art, with the carefully detailed and coloured garments adding to the spectacle. The pieces from this collection present to us the modern man of colour, a man not afraid to show his true colours.

VIEW THE INSTALLATION HERE

Christopher Shannon SS13

Christopher Shannon is one of my favourite designers, and I have all the more respect for him since he has graduated from Central St Martin's in London, one of the most prestigious Fashion Design colleges in the world. Metallics, stripes, stitched denim and displaced prints defined his latest collection. Christopher's ability to turn the most basic of garments into most intricate is shown in his alterations of a simple corduroy shirt by adding a displace metallic print and adding a glimmer of stripes on the sleeve of a white collared shirt. In addition to altering simple garments, he creates toned down statement pieces which are wearable - such as the stitched denim shirt and the big striped trousers. One of my favourite collections for the coming Spring/Summer season.

WATCH THE RUNWAY SHOW HERE

All images courtesy of Vogue UK