The Father of Men's Fashion Weeks brought about new waves of creativity and trends from some of the world's most renowned luxury labels. The scout boy look returned with Louis Vuitton, the comeback of the controversial colour, pink, from Paul Smith, an extravagant heavy metal show from Rick Owens brought about the unveiling of Adidas x Rick Owens collaborative shoe line and Riccardo Tisci produced a mechanically tribal collection for Givenchy. The notable collections included:
Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
Remnants of the outrageous prints from the 1980's consumerist regime of media were scattered throughout the latest offering from Raf Simons. Mismatching shapes, juxtaposed inanimate items on eye-catching patterns and Dali-inspired Surrealism on highly structural garments was what Raf wants men to wear for the coming season. Not to mention the shoes, showing Raf's ability to warp the much-loved sneaker into more of a masterpiece than they were already.
John Galliano Spring/Summer 2014
Bill Gaytten's collection for John Galliano is surprising change compared to the avant-garde aesthetic of John himself and to last year's lobster-clad collection. A boxy silhouette for men was opted for the coming Spring/Summer season, but with harmonious colours such as red, canary yellow and navy blue, the geometric silhouette is easier on the eye. Mosaic tiled trousers, sequin embellished blazers and shirting, kimono polo shirts and platform oxfords added a dynamic depth to the collection.
The in-your-face designs of Opening Ceremony duo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, have undoubtedly changed the face of Kenzo since their inception. After a streak of jungle-inspired pieces abundant in their collections, it seems the pair are transitioning into a more, dare I say, bearable aesthetic. Their Spring/Summer 2014 collection channels Seapunk in a manner of subtlety - the various shades of blue, prints depicting sea waves and sea foam as illustrated by the Ancient Japanese and the motif of the rip curl all point to this subculture. Blending these motifs into carefully constructed garments makes for an outstanding collection from the pair.
As I've mentioned many times, appropriating art into fashion takes a well-skilled and experienced designer to do so without damaging the repertoire of the designer and the artist. Kris Van Assche has brought the Mondrian print, as popularised by the late Yves Saint Laurent, into his latest menswear collection, but in a discreet colour palette of ox blood, greys and blues. The artwork appears silently throughout the minimal garments, creating a distinct geometric collection for the modern man who adores Dior.
