Milan Men's Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014

Dolce & Gabbana's Kings of Fashion

Milan has not brought the flurry of changes to menswear as anticipated almost every year, with most designers managing to keep their signature aesthetic but struggling to progress. Maybe the toll of 2013's undoubtably spectacular collections has come down on the designers, and they have nothing to prove except the quality of their garments rather than displaying the flashiness that can be achieved in men's fashion design, who knows. But of course, a few have emerged as victorious in pushing their label forward whilst sticking to their famed focus on quality, ethos and aesthetic.

Calvin Klein is now on board for the logo-mania trend

Predictably, most of the trends shown during London Collections: Men have flowed right into the collections of Italian designers, including a heavy accentuation on scarves, the re-emergence of plaid - likely to be a bouncing off of the gingham trend within womenswear thanks to Céline, beatnik turtlenecks and statement sweaters, particularly Calvin Klein, all featuring names of popular perfumery within their brand.

Salvatore Ferragamo finale

The colour selections of various Italian designers seemed mundanely uniform, all splashing shades of blue, woody browns and shocking reds throughout their collections, with Salvatore Ferragamo and Gucci achieving this without desperation to bring attention to their collection, unlike a few designers. Black is obviously an essential within the Winter wardrobe, and hints of gold, both shiny and matte, were seen in MSGM and Vivienne Westwood, and more so in the garments of the Kings of Style of Milan; Dolce & Gabbana.

Backstage at the Gucci show

Themes amongst the collections are a given, and for this season the most prominent was old country western and royalty. The wild, wild west was apparent in the collections of Versace - baring more than the eye could handle, Missoni, Philipp Plein and subtly throughout John Varvatos's clothing. But even despite this, no clear relevance can be disseminated - is it just spectacle for the sake of spectacle? Or is this theme simply an honour to the recent Chanel Métiers d'Art show? I hardly think crotchless leather chaps will make a comeback. Maybe Missoni's ponchos will emerge as the only trend to be taken on from this theme, as fashion consumers focus on wearability and lifetime nowadays. Besides, cowboys were outshone by the Norman Kings of Italy, who made a seemingly resurrected appearance in Dolce & Gabbana's collection, and was no doubt the show and collection that emerged as the best during the week.

Missoni's ponchos presented during the finale

To view all the looks from the fashion shows, head to www.style.com

Images courtesy of This Hearts On Fire, Senatus and Fashionising

Harper's Bazaar Australia: 15 designers, 15 covers, 15 years to celebrate!

Giorgio Armani

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

Harper's Bazaar Australia turns 15 this year, and in celebration of their anniversary, 15 powerhouse designers of the fashion world have conjured up limited edition covers for fashion fans around the world to collect. In addition to those pictured, high profile names such as Frida Giannini from Gucci, Alber Elbaz from Lanvin, Christian Louboutin, Hermés, Karl Lagerfeld from Chanel and Diane Von Furstenberg have lent their creative minds manifest into a series of custom designed fashion sketches and editorials. Personally, I have the Carine Roitfeld cover in my sights, and with Mother's Day in our midst, why not grab one for your mother for a truly fashionable gift! Happy Birthday Harper's Bazaar Australia, may the publication continue to bring fashion inspiration to all of us!

 

Victoria Beckham

Carine Roitfeld, featuring Prada Spring/Summer 2013 dress

To view the complete series of covers, head to www.bazaarcoverstory.com.au

 Images courtesy of Harper's Bazaar Australia

Provocations

Calvin Klein is utlizing their man-of-the-moment model, Alexander Skarsgard, to revamp the edge which the brand has always epitomized in their latest campaign film, "Provocations". The mesmerizing film is directed by Fabien Baron, the Editorial Director for one of the world's top magazines, Interview. The film is an ode to the ever increasing technological dependence of the world, the loss of love in times of rapid change, and the need for closeness to others which seems almost impossible nowadays. The film somewhat reflects the settings and storylines of films such as Gattaca, Aeon Flux and even The Island - a mix of Sci-Fi, Romance Film Noir and Drama. This intoxicating film is one of the best fashion campaigns I have witnessed, further deepening my loyalty to the Calvin Klein label.

Video courtesy of the official Calvin Klein Youtube channel

Note: one can change the story via the youtube channel, create your own Provocations narrative

Milan Men's Fashion Week, Day 2

With Milan Men's Fashion Week in full swing, the trends are emerging and fashion enthusiasts are getting ever more lusty over the new collections. The second day featured shows from Salvatore Ferragamo, Trussardi, Bottega Veneta, Bally, Iceberg, Vivienne Westwood, Ports 1961, Daks, Moncler Gamme Bleu and Caruso.

My favourite collections from Day 2 include Calvin Klein, Missoni and Prada.

Calvin Klein Autumn/Winter 2013

Calvin Klein's Autumn/Winter collection had an abundance of ribbed and quilted jackets and sweaters, but with a more contemporary and futurist aesthetic. Sports luxe elements have carried through from last year, with reptilian leather trainers completing the mostly monochromatic outfits. The trend of ox blood, chocolate brown and deep navy blue has translated into this collection, and in its different shades creates a collection with depth purely through varying colours and simplified ribbed embellishments.

View the collection HERE

Watch the runway show HERE

Missoni Autumn/Winter 2013

It was gradients galore at the Missoni Autumn/Winter 2013, the colour palette drawing inspiration from autumn leaves and bringing life to the colours through classic and comfortable fashion design. Accessories such as rugged leather briefcases and totes and are the stand out pieces amongst the myriad of casual chic looks. Missoni has proven their ability to draw on their heritage and design a collection for the modern yet nostalgic man.

View the collection HERE

Prada Autumn/Winter 2013

A show set full of 60s-70s retro and Bauhaus furniture, the wooden stairs elevates the models to enhance the richness of Prada's latest collection. Though simple in look and detail, the colour choice of the garments complements the retrospective design aesthetic. Prada has managed to modernize 60s and 70s men's fashion to convey the message that fashion is both ephemeral and timeless.

View the collection HERE

Watch the runway show HERE

Images courtesy of Calvin Klein LIVE, Prada LIVE, and Style.com

New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013 - Highlights Part 2

Days 5-8 of New York Fashion Week featured shows from notable designers in the fashion industry, such as Caroline Herrera, Belstaff, Ohne Titnel, Donna Karan, Karen Walker, Elie Tahari, Thom Browne, Marc Jacobs, J.Crew, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Betsey Johnson, Michael Kors, Oscar De La Renta, Jeremy Scott, Anna Sui, J.Lindenberg, Ralph Lauren and Cynthia Rowley.

My favourite collections from the second half of the week included:

Narciso Rodriguez Spring/Summer 2013

Body hugging mid-length skirts are replacing the typical mini this coming Spring/Summer season

 Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2013

 Proenza Schouler is now a designer label that is an essential in every woman's wardrobe, with their unique and their take on futuristic feminine unsurpassed by most designers today. I didn't know what to expect after Proenza Schouler's outstanding Autumn/Winter collection, which undoubtedly sparked the oriental print and stiff silk trend amongst women, but this time they wowed fashion media with a collection combining the predicted trends of mesh, coloured leather panels and the comeback of chokers. Proenza Schouler never ceases to disappoint me with their collections, kudos to Jake McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez!

Reed Krakoff Spring/Summer 2013

Vivienne Tam Spring/Summer 2013

Vivienne Tam's latest collection is by far my favourite of New York Fashion Week, and dare I say by comparing collections, Proenza Schouler should be on the run for their money! Vivienne's collection feature a barrage of dresses with geometric and 3D effect meshing and cutouts, all carefully placed, enhancing the mechanical beauty of the dresses themselves and diverts attention away from the revealing nature of the garments. Vivienne also manages to stay on trend with spaghetti strap dresses, the straps forming a symmetrical shape across the woman's chest, with blinding oranges and reds popping out throughout the garments and with metallic coats and jackets adding a masculine quality to the collection. I'm keen to see what lies next for this designer!

Theysken's Theory Spring/Summer 2013

A lot of light, airy outerwear was featured in this collection, a staple in the transitional Spring  season

Zero + Maria Cornejo Spring/Summer 2013

Artwear is becoming prevalent not only in fashion enthusiasts' wardrobes, but also in the mainstream public, with prints depicting distorted artworks and geometric tessellations

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer 2013

Phillip Lim has brought to women a collection that embodies the "FTW" attitude of street chic New Yorkers, somewhat drawing inspiration from the 1980s and the distinctive style of men and women alike in today's underground London hip hop and hipster scenes.The collection almost clashes with itself, but retains its wearability and intrigue, featuring clashes of floral and metallic, neon and neutral and leopard print with panelled denim. All I could say is, this collection would definitely be a hit amongst rebellious chicks who thrive on the latest trends in punk, urban and high fashion.

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013

Calvin Klein will always be one of my favourite labels in the industry - the brand's image of minimalism does not cover the fact that the brand's pieces are simple yet no other designers can replicate its style. Calvin Klein has given the meshing trend a twist, with the mesh forming subtle optical illusions that only complement the movement of figures of the women wearing the dresses. The brand has kept to its signature calming colour palette, and contributes to the toning down of the intricacy of the meshing which is prominent within the collection. 

Diesel Black Gold Spring/Summer 2013

Libertine Spring/Summer 2013

Libertine is one of the few labels that fuse artwear and menswear, allowing the eccentric and artistic male to express his true spirit through his clothing, without limitations. For this coming Spring/Summer season, Libertine have splashed bright fonts onto outerwear and button ups, geometric shapes onto shorts and suits, and pencil drawings onto sportswear, giving a range of options for the dandy male of today.

All images courtesy of Fashionising

All runway shows can be viewed on Youtube via FashionTV or FataleFashion