7.10.2012

Paris Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013 - Day 4

It's nearly the end of Paris Men's Fashion Week and then Couture week hits off!
Shows from Bill Tornade, the conceptual Bernard Willhelm, the dark and moody Damir Doma, popular denim label Acne, and the worldly Kenzo.

My favourite collections of the day came from HermesDior Homme by Raf Simons, Wooyoungmi, Miharayasuhiro and fashion's most famous sustainable designer, Maison Martin Margiela.

Hermes SS13








The careful coordination of colours is what prestigious label Hermes' collection is all about this season. Differing hues of the primary colours blue, yellow and red are mixed with calming neutrals, enhancing the collection's wear-ability and especial qualities such as selection of materials and displaced zipper details. Utility and aesthetic are key to this collection, rarely seen from the house of Hermes.


Dior Homme SS13






Throughout most of Raf's menswear collections, the mysterious shade of navy blue almost always makes an appearance. It is now translating into his work for Dior, with this season's collection emphasizing the masculinity and clean cut qualities of the colour by creating military and slim work wear inspired garments more of a fashion statement than ever before. Raf's vision is endless and futuristic, introducing shirts that resemble backward blazers and sheer tailored pants, jackets and coats. This collection is one of Raf's best as Creative Director for Dior, and further points out his ability to start trends rather than follow them.


WATCH THE FULL SHOW HERE


Wooyoungmi SS13










Korean label Wooyoungmi rivals Kenzo with their use of digital mesh and mismatching prints, against simple tailored garments. The sedated colour palette brings a sense of peace within the collection, and tones down the optical pieces to wearable status. Panels and displaced print detail are subtle, but adds that touch of magnetism to the collection.


WATCH THE FULL SHOW HERE

Miharayasuhiro SS13










Undoubtedly one of the Japanese fashion world's underdog designers, Miharayasuhiro stuns us with beautifully detailed statement artwear for the street. Miharayasuhiro does not compromise the elegance of tailoring nor the messages that can be conveyed through art, applying traditional South American and python prints to carefully tailored garments. The most distinct print would be the slashes of paint on suits, the colours only emphasizing the ability of designers to turn a staple garment into a statement garment. Miharayasuhiro also does this for shorts, which are made from wool mesh, jackets, by hiding the buttons under the seam, and also trousers, applying stitching that resembles python print on the whole garment.


WATCH THE FULL SHOW HERE


Maison Martin Margiela SS13










One of the true pioneers of sustainable fashion design, Maison Martin Margiela has always been the go-to designer house for sustainable garments that don't sacrifice style. Clean white quilt ribbed blazers and trousers fill the collection with a heavenly atmosphere, and are paired against waistcoats and coats made from discarded patches, an indication of the house never backing down from using recycled materials throughout their collections. Eye-blinding metallic appears throughout the collection, but what caught my eye the most were the morbidly printed pants, depicting death-like figures in a fiery environment. Maison Martin Margiela has not disappointed me this season, but you must admit, the collection is an acquired taste, without knowing Maison Martin Margiela's background and legendary status in the fashion industry.


WATCH THE FULL SHOW HERE


All images courtesy of Fashionising

4 comments:

  1. Raf Simons doesn't design for Dior Homme. Kris Van Assche does. Raf Simons designs for the womenswear division, a position John Galliano once held.

    ReplyDelete
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    1. Oh my bad, thank you for clearing that up.

      - cacolyte

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    2. Oh my bad, thank you for clearing that up.

      - cacolyte

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    3. Looking forward to Hedi Slimane for YSL !!

      KAIIWONG

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